These Gingery Soba Noodles May Just Defy Definition

For Yotam Ottolenghi, all food is comfort food. But this quick-to-prepare dish is especially sustaining.

By Yotam Ottolenghi

LONDON — Comfort food is hard to pin down.

It’s as slippery as noodles, with any attempt to characterize it often countered by an exception.

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